Lockhart's Rice-to-Riches review

Lockhart Steele reviews the much-ballyhooed (particularly by Lockhart himself) Nolita rice pudding shop Rice-to-Riches: "The crowd was pulsating, the servers too chipper, the flavors obtuse. We tried the Strawberry Floozy, which tasted like a goopy strawberry sherbert, with lumpsalbeityespleasing lumps. Today we read in a Times article about the phenomenon that the owner 'spent a lot of time looking for words that go together.' Right-o."
Rice to Riches [Lockhart Steele]