In this week's restaurant review roundup, NYT food critic Frank Bruni takes it like a man and goes for the big meat at Peter Luger and Wolfgang's. In fact, there's a totally turgid undertone to the whole Dining & Wine section today. For the retarded yet horny in the house, there's a massive NYT explication on the building of ice cream sundaes, which ends "An ice cream sundae is summer's Cinderella. Enjoy her, if possible, before midnight." (Here's a helpfully edited version.)

Here's my new pet theory: as cultural criticism gets more democratic, service criticism gets more esoteric and high-falutin'. This dovetails scarily with the obvious fact that food critics are clearly sublimating their sex drives with over-snacking. Will someone mercy-fuck Frank Bruni already?
Review Roundup [NYC Eats]
Accessorizing the Scoops of Summer [NYT]

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