Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni's blog really steps it up a notch today, boldly going where no haute foodie has gone before: Hooters, everyone's favorite sports-and-boobs restaurant. Inside, he finds the buffalo wings to be tangy but the Philly cheesesteak to contain "assiduously minced" meat. Bruni also learns that doorgirls wear white shorts while waitresses wear orange, Swedish tourists love the joint, and that service is cheerful and funny.
Only a gay man would walk into Hooters, muse on the servers' outfits, drop an Ingmar Bergman reference, and praise the professional tits for having a "big hearts."
Wings and Things [Diner's Journal]