Times dining critic Frank Bruni starts his review of Lincoln Center cheeseateria Picholine with a recollection of a previous visit :

The food lacked luster. The service lacked smarts. When my sister foolishly asked our waiter how old he thought she was, he even more foolishly took the question seriously, hazarding a guess that was two years too many. What a dolt.

Uh oh, you think, Frank's going to tear this place a new one. However, after a brief bit of bitching about the d cor (too much purple) Frank goes on to lavish praise upon the food, the chef, and the presentation, awarding the restaurant three stars and ending on an up note:

When a late-October milestone of my own approached and I surveyed the restaurants in my sights, I decided to celebrate the occasion with the last in a series of visits to Picholine. What a happy birthday I had.

Well, sure: They brought out a cake with 39 candles.

Birds Still Soar, and They're Not Alone [NYT]

Contact information for this author is not available.