Don't get us wrong: we love pork as much as the next ex-vegetarian Jew (actually, probably way more). But as far as trends go, we think the upscaling of pig is pretty lame. We mean, $108/lb Lomo Iberico ham? People, it's pork! Oink oink! Not a luxury item to fetishize! The only thing worse than the luxeification of this formerly reliably humble meat has to be the horrifying descriptions of cocktails that reek of Iron Chef: Battle Pork in yesterday's Styles:
You don't taste the pork, at first, sensing instead an indecipherable richness, a pleasantly fatty edge. Every now and again, though, you encounter a salty speck of pork that demands to be chewed, providing a weird but wonderful shock to the system: Hey, I'm eating my drink.
We're actually in favor of drinking our drinks, thanks, and we're willing to do whatever it takes to staunch the pork-trend tide. Charlotte, where are you?
Pork and Chocolate: Two Great Tastes [Grub Street]
Carnivores in Margaritaville [NYT]