Nobody Turns Out Frank Bruni

Times food critic Frank Bruni takes a tour of Porter House New York and STK, two recently opened area steakhouses. In his discussion of the d cor, Frank clears up a question that so many of us have been wondering about:

STK's servers are actually a more impressive lot, in that they manage to remain upbeat and upright while transporting food through a maelstrom of bodies in the front dining area. They're luckier if they're working in the slightly calmer, less populous back, where circular white leather booths are set much too slickly into shiny black frames. I've never taken a spin inside a pimp's stretch limo, and now I don't need to.
Don't be so quick to say no, Frank! Head over to the Business desk and talk to Sharkey; he'll set you up.

Two Steakhouses, Two Visions [NYT]