Alex Witchel Tells Michael Pollan To Eat It

Yes, there are eaters who think it in their interest that food just be as cheap as possible, no matter how poor the quality. But there are many more who recognize the real cost of artificially cheap food — to their health, to the land, to the animals, to the public purse.
Or!
As I write this, a loaf of Wonder Bread sits beside me, growing steadily smaller. For a mass-produced product, what a delicate creation! I've left a half-eaten piece on my desk for 20 minutes and it has already gone stale. One bite, though, and the heat of my mouth melted it right back to freshness. No, I don't find that scary. I find it magical. Which brings me to another point: to toast fresh Wonder Bread is a crime against nature. The fresh Wonder Bread experience, something like eating Play-Doh shot through with air and flavored with milk, cannot be truly appreciated when it assumes a form other than squishy.
Seriously, fuck health, land, animals and the public purse. Bring on the air-shot Play-Doh! —Emily

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You Are What You Grow [NYT]