Who is the "living embodiment of possibly the most desired demographic of all"?

New York magazine's food dude Adam Platt recently visited Danny Abram's Central Village resto Smith's. The food was good, try the squid but really who cares. We want to know who was there! Or do we!

[I]n the mini dining room, the mini-tables were filled with animated parties of diners, many of them female, happily chatting in the soft, carefully calibrated light. At one of the banquettes sat a magazine food editor, a regular judge on the reality series Top Chef. And across from her sat the living embodiment of possibly the most desired demographic of all. "Do you know who that is?" said one of the hulking gentlemen at my table. "That's Anna Wintour's personal assistant."
Really? The ""living embodiment of possibly the most desired demographic of all" is some overworked underpaid whisp of a girl afraid to breathe out of turn or make eye contact with animate things? As sad/crazy/ree-ree as this sounds, it does explain the enduring popularity of the small sullen simian Olsen twins.