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Best Of Armani Vs. Times Catfight

Picture 9-7Yes, the fashion industry is just like high school, and Times fashion critic Cathy Horyn not only said it but proved it this morning with an article detailing, in no less than 1,400 words, her own petty squabble with designer Giorgio Armani. Aramani appears to be, by far, the pettier of the two, having banned Horyn from his fashion shows over a rough review in January and having sent a bitchy letter to her bosses. But Horyn has also been catty, writing repeated melodramatic accounts of the feud and casting Armani as something of a 1980s has-been, even as she puts on analytical airs. Here's a quick summary, in Horyn and Armani's own words, of their hissy little slapfest:

From Horyn's January Paris dispatch, which set off the whole fight:

Mr. Armani’s niece, Roberta, sat next to Hilary Swank, who had on a black beaded cocktail dress. Ms. Armani never seemed to stop smiling. [Apparently Armani was offended at this characterization of his niece. —ed.]

...There was nothing lurid or in bad taste about Mr. Armani’s clothes, but neither was there anything subtle or particularly surprising about them...

Despite his incredible design range over the years, irony and self-reference are not within [Armani's] imagination, so there will never be a jewel of a dress coming out from a huge beige hub of an Armani jacket. The great thing about watching a Lagerfeld couture show, and to an extent a Galliano, is that each dress and jacket is not only unique but also conveys with wit the history of the house. You get that much less with Mr. Armani.

The response from Armani, in one or more letters he wrote to Horyn's editors and possibly to Horyn herself, as described by Horyn:

He thought I was “belittling” of his family and friends...

In a letter to my editor earlier this month, [Armani] cites my “unnecessarily sarcastic comments” about his friends and family in a review of his last couture show and notes that I have “rarely found positive remarks” to make about his ready-to-wear collections, and then surmises that I have “an embedded preconception.” He concludes: “Going forward therefore, I see no real merit in inviting Cathy Horyn to my women’s shows.”

Horyn replies:

Practiced mainly by older designers, whose careers took flight in the 1980s, banning seems a reflexive action against a perceived threat to their power...

The ’80s was a creative period in fashion, the decade of nouveau-riche dressing and the invasion of the Japanese designers in Paris, but it was also an uncritical one...

it is clear to her that some designers don’t fully understand the different roles of the media — the magazine editors looking for beautiful clothes to photograph (and, with luck, an advertiser to satisfy in the process), the newspaper critic examining a creative change, and increasingly the amateur blogger...

Many consumers find Mr. Armani’s clothes very appealing, and certainly no one would bother denying that he had a huge impact on the way men and women looked in the ’80s and early ’90s. I loved attending his shows then...

I can’t say yet whether I will write about Mr. Armani’s clothes by viewing them online. Frankly, I would be much more excited if he unburdened himself of the whole system, closed down the shows, stopped with the backstage stroking sessions, and went directly over the Internet to the public.

Times: My Invitation Isn’t in the Mail

4:09 AM on Thu Mar 13 2008
By Ryan Tate
1,857 views
13 comments

Comments

  • Ok, honestly? Cathy Horyn looks like Jack Palance and is a minor league writer. Armani, well, he is Armani. Who the fuck cares about Horyn's opinion about anything? Either she should humble me with her outstanding intellect, or she should me some outstanding anything. Looks? Not. Copy? Not. She doesn't suck, but really, when it comes to Armani, she should stop talking when she could be walking.

  • @donmiguel: show

  • Image of cassandra cassandra at 07:15 AM on 03/13/08 *

    I actually like Cathy Horyn's writing. But this is not a First Amendment issue as she's trying to paint it to be. If she stuck to the clothes, she would be fine; that's her job. But the comment about his niece was actually unnecessarily bitchy. (People in Europe -- and in fashion-- don't like to be known to smile; it makes them look eager and easy, when they would rather be Euro and cool). Her criticisms are only valid about the shows and the clothes; and if she did want to start getting personal, then doesn't he have a right to return fire? I would think so. Besides, fashion journalism isn't real journalism. It's all a corrupt system of favors and advertorials and swag anyway, so to take advantage of that and then cry "freedom of speech" is a little hypocritical.

  • Kathy Horn is not a minor writer. Would Armani himself throw such a hissy had she been? Frankly, I agreed with her commentary of his collection completely and moreover the remark about his niece was descriptive, but I don't even see how it's negative.

  • Image of BalknChain BalknChain at 08:15 AM on 03/13/08 *

    She said his niece smiled? Why that dirty little trollop of a non-talented writer! He should definately sue the off-brand, off the rack suit right off of her back!
    *ugh


  • Actually, the smile slam was part of a more pointed contrast, set up in the three preceding sentences:

    "Mr. Armani is a master at creating a scene. Inside, 10 men in crow's-nests trained stage lights on the runway. Sophia Loren, dressed in a dark coat and trousers, sat in the front row. There was no need to smile because Sophia Loren had smiled so many times before."

    So the smile has nothing to do with being a sourpuss Euro, but with being a starstruck publicity novice.

  • You know how sometimes you get pissed off the most when someone says something critical that deep down you know to be true?

    I think that explains Armani's reaction. Horyn's review of his work was extremely accurate. Now why he got pissed about his niece being described as 'smiling' I don't get at all.

  • Does anyone really know what time it is? Does anyone really care?

  • I always thought you're never fully dressed without a smile. You'd think fashion people would know that!

  • Cathy Horyn is amazing and dead-on about a designer who's pretty much dead in the water. He's lucky people want to see his completely irrelevant shows at this point and should re-consider banning anyone willing to waste their time in his front row.

    p.s. ban banning!

  • Wow another one. I thought recently Giorgio was calling out Anna Wintour? Or they kissed and made up?

  • I agree that he is, by far, the prettier of the two.

  • Armani's burning all of his britches?

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