Eating & Drinking: Wednesday Edition

• The Four Seasons may be having its moment as it celebrates its 50th, but things aren't so cheery across the street. John McDonald and Josh Picard's Lever House closes on Friday, supposedly for "renovations." [TFB]
• Jim Lahey's Co. gets a one-star from Frank Bruni in today's Times. [NYT]
• The Post's Steve Cuozzo isn't blown away by Per Se's à la carte menu. [NYP]
Restaurants & Institutions list of the 100 top-grossing restaurants is online. Tavern on the Green, Smith & Wollensky, Tao, Buddakan, and Sparks Steak House round out New York City's top five. [R&I]
• A roundup of what's opened this week, and what's coming soon. [NYT]

• Siberia's Tracy Westmoreland is returning to the bar scene. His new spot, Manhattans, opens in Brooklyn (Prospect Heights) on Friday. [BTB]
• Wine on tap is the "wave of the future," apparently. [NYT]
Zak Pelaccio's new Fatty Crab branch gets solid marks by Ryan Sutton. [BN]
• The Times digs into the banh mi trend spreading across town. [NYT]
Graydon Carter's Waverly Inn isn't as hard to get into these days. [Gawker]
• Why do some restaurants get liquor licenses immediately and others have to wait for months? It may have something to do with bribery! [NYDN]