If You Don't Care About the Quality of Your Matsutake-Infused Yam Dumplings, Sure Why Not Eat at Per Se?

The restaurant Per Se—once declared “the best in New York” by the New York Times—has fallen from the grace of Times food man Pete Wells, who just downgraded it to two stars (or “very good”) after encountering an apparent cacophony of horrors during his most recent visit.
