The Observer's Frank DiGiacomo reports that A.A. Gill's eviscerating review of Jean-George Vongerichten's restaurant 66 was vendetta for editor Graydon Carter, who went to the restaurant and "had to wait like five minutes for a table." Graydon was reportedly "pissed." I liked the review. (Of course.) And I don't think it hurt the restaurant in any way. The people who would go to 66 are still going to go to 66. At least once. Maybe pissing off Graydon is a good thing. It certainly makes Vanity Fair a more entertaining read.
Grouchy Graydon sends a hitman to restaurant 66 [Observer]